The Ordinary Retinol Guide: Which Strength to Start With
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Retinoids are among the most well-evidenced ingredients in skincare for reducing the visible signs of ageing, improving skin texture, and supporting cell turnover. The Ordinary offers six different retinoid products — and the range from beginner-friendly to genuinely strong is significant.
Start at the wrong level and you may experience unnecessary redness, peeling, or irritation. Start too low and you'll take years to see results. This guide explains exactly how The Ordinary's retinoid range works and where to begin.
Retinoids vs. Retinol: the terminology explained
The word "retinoid" is an umbrella term for all Vitamin A derivatives used in skincare. Retinol is one type within that family. The Ordinary's range includes two distinct types:
Granactive Retinoid (Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate — HPR)
Granactive Retinoid uses Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR), a next-generation retinoid ester. Unlike traditional Retinol, HPR does not need to be converted by the skin before it becomes active — it binds directly to retinoid receptors. This means it delivers noticeable results without the significant irritation associated with Retinol.
The result: Granactive Retinoid is highly effective but significantly gentler. It is widely regarded as the best entry point for anyone new to retinoids.
Retinol
Traditional Retinol must be converted in the skin (first to retinaldehyde, then to retinoic acid) before it becomes active. This conversion process is what causes the characteristic irritation — redness, flaking, peeling, and sensitivity — particularly in the early weeks of use while the skin builds tolerance.
Retinol is well-supported by decades of research, but it requires a careful build-up period.
The Ordinary's full retinoid range
| Product | Type | Strength | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Granactive Retinoid 2% in Squalane | HPR | 2% HPR | Best starting point for retinoid beginners |
| Granactive Retinoid 5% in Squalane | HPR | 5% HPR | Step up from 2%; still no significant irritation |
| Granactive Retinoid 2% Emulsion | HPR + encapsulated Retinol | 2% HPR + Retinol | Creamy format; gentle introduction with combined technology |
| Retinol 0.2% in Squalane | Pure Retinol | 0.2% | Start here if choosing traditional Retinol |
| Retinol 0.5% in Squalane | Pure Retinol | 0.5% | For those who have built tolerance at 0.2% |
| Retinol 1% in Squalane | Pure Retinol | 1% | High strength; experienced retinol users only |
All are PM only and all are formulated in Squalane, a lightweight, non-comedogenic carrier oil that suits most skin types.
Where to start
Complete beginners to retinoids
DECIEM's own recommendation — reflected in the Skincare Routine app — is to start with Granactive Retinoid 2% in Squalane.
"Start with something low strength. DECIEM suggests starting with the Granactive Retinoid 2% in Squalane and then moving to the 5%."
Use it two to three nights per week initially. After several weeks with no irritation, increase to every other night, then nightly. Then graduate to the 5% version once your skin is accustomed.
Those who want the traditional retinol pathway
If you want to use pure Retinol (either because you prefer it or because you've already been using retinoids from another brand), start with Retinol 0.2% in Squalane.
"Retinol can cause significant irritation, redness and peeling, especially around the eyes and mouth, in the early stages of treatment while skin builds tolerance. We strongly recommend starting with Retinol 0.2% in Squalane and adjusting to higher strengths as tolerance is built."
Only move to 0.5% once 0.2% causes no redness or peeling. Move to 1% only after sustained tolerance at 0.5%.
Those who want a gentler introduction with a cream texture
Granactive Retinoid 2% Emulsion combines HPR with encapsulated Retinol in a hydrating emulsion format. It's softer on the skin than the anhydrous Squalane versions and a good option for those with drier skin who find oils more comfortable than serums.
Important: what retinoids won't do
"Retinoids are not a treatment for acne. Acne-prone skin may experience a temporary increase in acne during the first few weeks of using any form of retinoid."
The initial purging phase — where existing congestion comes to the surface more quickly — can look like a breakout. This is temporary and expected. It is not an allergic reaction and is not a sign that retinoids aren't working for you.
Retinoids and pregnancy
"When pregnant or breastfeeding, it is recommended to avoid any skincare products containing retinoids."
This applies to all retinoid types, including Granactive Retinoid. If you are pregnant or breastfeeding, discontinue retinoid use and speak to your healthcare provider.
The conflicts you must know
Retinoids are probably the most conflict-prone product category in any skincare routine. They must not be used in the same session as:
Direct acids (AHAs and BHAs)
This is the most commonly broken rule. Do not use retinoids in the same session as:
- AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution
- Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution
- Lactic Acid 5% or 10%
- Mandelic Acid 10% + HA
- Salicylic Acid 2% Solution
Retinoids and direct acids together will over-exfoliate the skin, damage the barrier, and cause redness and sensitivity. The correct approach is to alternate them: use acids on different nights from your retinoid.
Copper Peptides
Buffet + Copper Peptides 1% (and any copper peptide product) should not be used in the same routine as retinoids. Use them on separate evenings.
Pure Vitamin C
As covered in the Vitamin C guide, pure L-Ascorbic Acid and retinoids conflict. Keep retinoids PM-only and avoid layering with Vitamin C in the same session.
Other retinoids
Don't stack multiple retinoid products. The app notes: "It is generally not recommended to use more than one retinoid product at a time. It is best to finish one product before starting another."
Using the app to manage your retinoid routine
The Skincare Routine app makes managing retinoids much simpler. All six retinoid products are pre-loaded and pre-configured:
- They are automatically placed in the PM routine.
- All conflict relationships (with acids, copper peptides, Vitamin C, and other retinoids) are built in.
- During your routine, if you tick your retinoid product, any conflicting acid or peptide products are immediately flagged with a crossed-out red checkbox.
- You can use the scheduling feature to set your retinoid to appear only on certain nights (e.g. Monday, Wednesday, Friday) and your acids on alternating nights — the app will manage this automatically.
- The 6-day usage bar visible in the routine view shows you at a glance when you last used each retinoid, making it easy to manage alternating treatments without keeping mental notes.
The app is available on iOS and Android at skincareroutine.app.
Summary: The Ordinary retinoid ladder
Start here (complete beginner):
Granactive Retinoid 2% in Squalane (2–3x per week)
↓
Granactive Retinoid 5% in Squalane
↓
Retinol 0.2% in Squalane (if choosing traditional retinol pathway)
↓
Retinol 0.5% in Squalane
↓
Retinol 1% in Squalane (experienced users only)
Key rules to remember:
- PM only. Always.
- Always follow with SPF the next morning. Retinoids increase photosensitivity.
- Never combine with acids in the same routine. Alternate instead.
- Build tolerance slowly. Start 2–3 nights per week and increase gradually.
- Expect a short purging period when starting for the first time.
Ready to start your routine?
Download the Skincare Routine app — available on iOS and Android.